Crochet Bassinet Counterpane

Crochet counterpane for a bassinet

Knitting, Purl, Crochet Crochet counterpane for a bassinet

CROCHET COUNTERPANE FOR A BASSINET.

MATERIALS..—Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Knitting Cords, Nos. 12 and 16; 8 oz. of blue beads, large enough to thread on the finest cotton, they should be turquoise blue; crochet hooks, Nos. 19 and 20.

The centre of the counterpane is made in diamonds, with small pieces at the edges, merely to fill in the parts where the diamonds leave spaces, and form the whole into a solid square. It is done in ribbed crochet. Ribbed crochet is so called from the work having the appearance of ridges. It is worked backwards and forwards thus: the top of a row of crochet, whether s.c., d.c., or t.c., presents an appearance of chain stitch; in working ribbed crochet, take up always that side of the chain which is furthest from you. The middle of the counterpane is done in knitting cord, No. 12; crochet hook, No 19.

FOR THE DIAMONDS.—(a) Make 2 ch., miss 1, 3 s.c. in the next ch.

2nd: Turn the work; 1 ch., 1 s.c. in one, 3 s.c. in next, 1 s.c. in third.

3rd: Turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in second, 3 s.c. in next, 2 s.c. in two last.

Thus you proceed, turning the work at the end of every row, working 1 s.c. in every one but the middle stitch, in which you work 3, until you have made 15 ribs, and the row has 61 stitches, a chain stitch being made at the beginning of every row.

Now make 3 ch., on turning, and work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, X 9 times, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, 1 ch., miss 1 (which should be at the point), 3 d.c. in second, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, * miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, * 9 times. This completes the row, the last 3 d.c. coming on the last stitch.

CROCHET COUNTERPANE FOR A BASSINET.
CROCHET COUNTERPANE FOR A BASSINET.

Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. between the sets of 3 d.c. of the last row, X to the end; s.c. only at the last.

Turn, X 3 ch, s.c. under loop, X to the end but with 5 ch. at the point; another s.c. in the last loop.

Turn, 2 ch., d.c. in every stitch of last row. Turn, 1 ch., s.c. in every stitch of last row; fasten off.

This completes one diamond, which for a bassinet quilt will be large enough. For a large counterpane they may be considerably increased. A glance at the engraving will show how they are joined together.

For the half diamonds at the side (b) make 2 ch.; work 2 s.c. in the first of these, turn, 1 ch., 1 s.c. in the first of the two of last row, 2 s.c. in the second; turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in the first, and 1 in each of the other 2 s.c. of last row. Continue working thus, making two in one at the end of one row and the beginning of the next, until there are 31 stitches and 15 ribs. Then, for the open part, 2 ch., turn, work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, X miss 2, 3 d.c. in next, X 10 times.

2nd row of open work: Turn, X 5 ch., d.c. under the chain between the first and second set of 3 d.c. X repeat to the end of the row; 5 ch., s.c. at the end.

3rd: Turn, X 3 ch., s.c. under loop, X repeat to the end.

4th: 2 ch., turn d.c. in every stitch to the end.

5th: 1 ch., turn, s.c. to the end.

For the side pieces (c) work in exactly the same manner, only beginning by working thus: 2 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first of the two and 1 in the second. This is just the reverse of the other, the increase continuing to be made at that edge where the first increases. Of course the last row will end at the point of one piece, and the short side of the other.

(d) 2 ch., work 3 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first, 3 in the next, 2 in the last. Turn, 1 ch.; work this and all the following rows until you have 61 stitches in this manner. 2 s.c. in the first and last stitches, 3 in one in the centre, and 1 in one in every other (increasing 4 stitches in every row). The five open work rows to be done as in a.

(e) Work these pieces like a, until 10 ribs are done; then turn and s.c. up to the three centre stitches, slip on the first of the three, X turn, miss the slip stitch, slip on the next, and s.c. to the end; turn, 1 ch., s.c. on all the s.c. but the last, which slip; X repeat between the marks until one stitch only remains, through which the thread is drawn. The other side of the point must then be worked to correspond with the first, the centre stitch not being worked at all.

(f) These two morsels are begun like b and c, and finished in the same way that e is. They will then exactly fit those corners. The other corners (g) are worked by beginning, as usual, with 2 ch., in the first of which work 3 s.c., X ch., turn, 2 s c. in first and last stitches, and one in each intermediate; X repeating backwards and forwards until 3 stitches are in the row, when complete by open work as in b and c.

The numbers required of each piece are—a, 28; b and c, five of each; d, e, f, and g, two each. (A glance at the engraving will show the manner in which these are joined into an oblong square.)

EYELET-HOLE BORDER.—When all are sewed together, a line of d.c. must be worked all round, with 3 stitches in one at the corners, and two in one on each side of the three. This will make the corners perfectly square.

2nd round: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1 X; repeat all round, but not missing any at the corners.

3rd: (Eyelet-holes). These are to be worked quite separately from the last, at first. X 9 ch., close for a round in the second, and work 8 s.c. under the half, X repeat until a length is done sufficient to surround the square, every little round being half-covered by the s.c. In covering the other half of each circle, you will attach it to the work thus:—4 more s.c. make a ch., slip the needle off the loop, insert it at the corner of second round, and draw the loop through, then 4 s.c. under the remainder of the circle, 1 s.c. on ch. between; X 4 s.c. under next eyelet-hole, miss 2 on the second round, insert the hook in the third, draw the loop through, and work 4 more under the ch.; X repeat, allowing 3 between, except at the corners.

4th: S.c. (putting the hook under both sides of the chain) at the top of an eyelet-hole, X 5 ch., s.c. in the same way under the centre of the next, X all round, with 6 ch. at the corners.

5th: X 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, X all round, not missing any at the corners.

6th: S.c. all round, with two stitches in one at the corners.

MOTTO BORDERS.—For these use Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Cotton, No. 12, on which the beads must be strung before beginning to work. The borders are done entirely in s.c., the beads being dropped on, according to the pattern, on the wrong side, this wrong side being the right when beads are used in crochet. The ends have 241 chain each: the sides, 397. The pattern occupies 55 rows, and the squares at the corners have 55 chain, and the same number of rows.

The motto borders and corners are all worked separately, and afterwards sewed together. When completed, the eyelet-hole border is again added all round, and the counterpane then only requires a deep open border.

This quilt would be very handsome, if worked in coarser cotton, for a full-sized bed. The small diamonds in the centre would thus be increased in size, and a sufficient number should be done to form a middle just three times the dimensions of that now given. The borders should be worked in open square crochet instead of s.c.; the pattern and letters in close squares on an open ground. It would for this purpose, be requisite to make the chains of three times the number of stitches, and one over: 724 for the ends, 1,192 for the sides, and 166 for the corners. In other respects the counterpane might be worked exactly from the instructions.

The family coat-of-arms and crest, correctly drawn, would make a very handsome centre for a counterpane in crochet. Where a quilt is done in square crochet, it should be laid over one of the new patent wadded counterpanes of a color appropriate to the furniture of the room, as this displays the work to great advantage.

 

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